Roofers in Funtington

Funtington lies below Stoke Down, at the foot of the South Downs. We give its flint-and-brick cottages, church roof and old chimneys a close survey, with photographs of each defect.

Where Funtington flint, tile and thatch meet

  • A flint gable beside a tiled slope

    Flint and brick along the street

    The village lies mainly along one street, and its cottages include some 17th-century timber framing and others of flint and brick with thatched roofs.

    Read more about Flint and brick along the street

    Where a flint gable meets a roof edge, the verge and its flashing keep the wall dry.

  • A church roof beside a flint tower

    St Mary's, flint under tile

    St Mary's church is flint, partly plastered, with ashlar dressings and a tile roof, and a 15th-century tower; it is listed Grade II*.

    Read more about St Mary's, flint under tile

    Flint walls hold moisture in their joints, so every junction with lead is checked closely.

  • A tiled slope on a timber-framed cottage

    Tile on one slope, thatch on another

    At West Ashling, in the parish, a timber-framed cottage has a roof tiled at the front and thatched at the back.

    Read more about Tile on one slope, thatch on another

    Where two coverings share one building, the wall between them, the gutter line and the tiled slope each need their own inspection.

Street map of Funtington, west of central Worthing, with a pin on the town.

Funtington areas, listings and directions

Planning authority
South Downs National Park Authority
Councils
Chichester District Council and West Sussex County Council
Conservation area
Funtington, on the South Downs National Park Authority's Chichester conservation area maps
Article 4
None listed for Funtington on the Authority's Article 4 page
Listed example
St Mary's church, Grade II* (list entry 1026342)
From central Worthing
26.6 road miles, west, about 40 minutes by car

Funtington roofs

Flint, brick and tile below Stoke Down

Three roofing subjects that follow from how Funtington's older buildings were put together, and where the village sits in the Park.

Chapter one

Flint gables and the lead that seals them

Flint and brick walls are only as dry as the lead strips where roofs meet them.

The Victoria County History describes cottages in Funtington built of flint and brick, alongside others with seventeenth-century timber framing. A larger house at the west end is flint with seventeenth-century brick dressings and a porch gable carved with the date 1655. A wall like that is a patchwork of different materials, and each one takes in and releases water at its own rate. Flint cobbles are dense and shed water, but the mortar between them is porous, and where a roof slope meets such a wall the junction has to be sealed with lead. The flashing, the answer to that, is a folded lead strip pushed into a cut joint in the wall and laid down across the tiles, so rain follows the metal and not the gap. Sealant smeared along that joint will stop working within a few winters, because the wall and the roof move at different speeds.

At a glance

  • Flint walls hold water in their joints
  • Lead flashing is cut into the wall, not stuck on
  • Code 4 lead suits most everyday flashing
Lead-lined valley where two clay-tiled roof slopes meet
Lead-lined valley where two clay-tiled roof slopes meet

1.1 Gables, verges and chimneys

On a gabled cottage the verge, the sloping edge of the roof at the gable, is the most exposed line. If it has been bedded in mortar alone, a gale can lift the end tiles and leave the wall top open. A chimney stack gets a flashing on every side, plus a back gutter, a small lead channel behind it that sends water round the stack. When we find water coming in near a stack, the fault is as often at the back gutter as at the stack itself.

Lead-lined valley where two clay-tiled roof slopes meet
Lead-lined valley where two clay-tiled roof slopes meet

1.2 What the lead is made of

Lead sheet is sold by code, which refers to its thickness. Leadworx calls code 4 the standard for everyday flashing, code 5 the step up for general and vertical work, and code 3 a soaker grade only. A flashing in a sound code can outlast the tiles around it, with published figures of over 80 years. Our lead roofing page covers the choice of code, the width of the laps and how long we expect each piece to hold. Sun and rain wear lead at different rates on different slopes, so we photograph every run we replace, and the record stays with the house. Where an old flashing was only caulked, we cut a proper chase and set new lead into it, because a joint that holds only on the day it is made does not suit a wall exposed to the Downs.

Lead sheet codes for a flint-and-brick house

Code 3 (1.32 mm)
Soakers only
Code 4 (1.80 mm)
General flashing work
Code 5 (2.24 mm)
General, vertical and pitched use
Flashing life
Over 80 years, over 100 for higher codes

Source: Leadworx; MyJobQuote, fetched October 2026

Chapter two

A Grade II* church and the Park

Three layers of designation sit over Funtington, and each answers a different question about what can be changed on a roof.

Knapped flint wall meeting the eaves of an old clay tile roof
Knapped flint wall meeting the eaves of an old clay tile roof

Funtington has a conservation area, it lies inside the South Downs National Park, and its church of St Mary carries a Grade II* listing. Those three designations do different things. The Grade II* listing protects the building itself: the church is flint, partly plastered, with ashlar dressings and a tile roof, and its tower dates from the fifteenth century. While St Mary's remains in worship as an Anglican parish church, any work to its roof is decided under a faculty, the Church's own process, and not by the council. The conservation area and the Park apply to ordinary houses, and between them they shape which alterations need a planning application, though neither stops a householder from mending a roof.

At a glance

  • St Mary's is Grade II*, with a tile roof
  • The village sits inside the National Park
  • No Article 4 direction is listed for Funtington

2.1 Who decides in the Park

The South Downs National Park Authority is the planning authority here. For the Chichester part of the Park its guidance directs enquiries through the district council, so start with Chichester District Council and ask which body will decide. The Authority's page on Article 4 directions shows none for Funtington. Neither the conservation area nor the Park changes the Building Regulations, which apply on any roof. Mending a covering with the same material is ordinarily upkeep, and the Park Authority separates the two cases on listed buildings: regular upkeep and small in-situ repairs in matching material need no listed building consent, while alterations or whole replacement of historic fabric do.

2.2 Changing the shape of a roof

Anything that changes the outline of a roof is a separate matter, and it is where Park and conservation-area rules bite hardest. Our roof planning permission guide sets out the questions to ask before you commission anything, and at the survey stage we explain which consents might apply to your idea. Bats are a further consideration in old roofs, and we watch for roosts. Any strip-out on a roof of this age also begins with photographs of the existing tiles, battens and ridge, which gives the conservation officer a clear record of what was there and gives you proof of the roof's condition before work began, whether or not a consent is needed in the end.

What people sayBeing inside a National Park means a roof can only be mended with the Authority's permission.

What is trueMaintenance and like-for-like repairs generally need no consent; it is alteration, new roof shapes and the listed fabric that raise the questions.

Chapter three

Chimneys and tiled slopes on older houses

Stacks that have stood since the seventeenth century show their age in the pointing and in the lead around them.

A seventeenth-century cottage in Funtington may have a chimney built when the house was, and a stack that old has been rained on for close to four centuries. Its bricks are soft and its lime mortar has been washed out of the outer joints, so the stack gradually loses its grip on itself. Repointing in a mortar of the right strength is one repair; a stack whose bricks have crumbled, or that leans, is another. We look at four things from a ladder and from inside the loft: the pointing, the state of the brickwork, the flaunching, the cement bed that holds the pots, and the lead flashings at the base. A cracked flaunching lets water in beside the pots, and the first sign inside is a stained chimney breast, though the cause is high above.

At a glance

  • Old stacks fail at the pointing first
  • Lead at the base of a stack fails next
  • A rebuild is a larger decision than a repoint
Victorian terrace chimney stacks with spalled bricks and old lead flashing
Victorian terrace chimney stacks with spalled bricks and old lead flashing

3.1 Repair, repoint or rebuild

Repointing is the usual job, and if only the top courses have failed, a partial rebuild of those courses may be enough. A full rebuild comes into play when the stack leans or the bricks flake away, and it usually calls for scaffold. Removing a chimney breast is a different matter altogether, since the Planning Portal says Building Regulations approval always applies, and a party wall notice is needed when it sits on a party wall. Our chimney repairs page walks through the options.

Victorian terrace chimney stacks with spalled bricks and old lead flashing
Victorian terrace chimney stacks with spalled bricks and old lead flashing

3.2 The tiled slopes around it

Tiles round a stack take extra punishment, because water runs off the stack on to them and wind swirls there. We replace any that are cracked and refix those that have slipped, working from the verge inwards. Where the whole slope has gone, the larger question is repair or replace, and our roof repairs page explains how we weigh it. We also tell you what we would leave alone. A stack with sound brickwork and one failed joint does not need rebuilding, and the figures below show how far apart those two jobs sit. Check whether any quote you receive includes scaffolding, which a tall stack on a steep cottage roof often needs, and for how long it stays up. Ask too about the pots and cowls: a cracked pot or a missing cowl lets rain straight down a flue, and replacing one is far cheaper than repairing the damp it causes inside the breast.

Published UK ranges for stacks and lead

  • Lead patch repair£150 to £250
  • Chimney repointing£500 to £2,000
  • Moderate roof repair£500 to £1,000
  • Stack rebuild£2,000 to £10,000+

National guides give these bands. A price for your own house is written down as one total once the survey and its photographs are done. Source: MyBuilder chimney repair and roof repair guides, updated 21/08/2026; MyJobQuote lead work guide, 22/09/26.

Funtington roof questions: flint, lead and the Park

Why do flint cottages leak at the gable end?

Usually at the verge or the flashing, not through the flint. The mortar between flint cobbles is porous, and a roof edge bedded only in mortar can lift in a gale, letting water behind the wall top. We check the verge tiles, test the lead where the roof meets the wall and trace any stain back from inside, then show you photographs of the weak point.

Does a Funtington roof in the National Park need planning permission to mend?

Mending with the same covering seldom does. The Authority treats routine upkeep and small in-situ repairs in matching material as needing no listed building consent, though replacing historic fabric does. Ask Chichester District Council which body decides, and mention if the house is listed. Changing the roof's shape is a separate question with its own rules.

Can a roof tiled on one side and thatched on the other be surveyed?

Yes. At West Ashling, in the parish, the Victoria County History records a cottage with exactly that arrangement. We survey the tiled slope, its battens, the lead and the chimney, and photograph the wall and gutter where the two coverings meet, so you can see how that join is holding up. Anything about the thatch itself is best put to a thatching specialist.

How do I know whether a seventeenth-century chimney needs rebuilding?

Look for a lean, bricks that crumble when scratched, and pointing missing from several courses. A stack with one failed joint needs repointing, not rebuilding. We inspect from a ladder and the loft, photograph each defect and quote for the smaller job whenever it properly fixes the problem. A rebuild is recommended only where the stack cannot be made sound by repair.

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